Thursday, May 6, 2010
Kalkan is a place we almost missed I am so glad we were introduced to it as a “must do.” We landed in Dalaman after a short & pleasant flight from Istanbul on Turkish air. They even fed us lunch on the plane between our naps! Dalaman’s airport is a nice size and easy to get around. Our driver was waiting for us on arrival so we loaded up and headed down the highway to Kalkan. When we arrived we were pleasantly surprised by the great accommodations at the “White House Pensione.” (“Pensione - Thats Italian and pronounced: Pen She Own Eh).
After a short time we felt really quite at home here in Kalkan. The people are very friendly. As noted before; the “Touts” (They stand outside their restaruants inviting you to come in and sometimes with much vigor) would get on Barbs nerves a bit and I must say they did bother me a bit too if one wanted to be out for a nice quiet stroll together. However we must remember it is us that must change and mold when visiting other countries and cultures.
Hussein and his wonderful wife were great hosts at the White House and the owner Haliel was a great guy too. The white house had a great view and a wonderful roof top terrace to enjoy but still I liked the people best.
Hussein suggested that if we liked Kalkan we needed to get out away from the coast and see the more traditional Turkish people. We agreed that this would be a great idea and that we should also visit Hussein’s Village which was about 13 kms inland.
OFF WE GO!
So we rented a “Jeep” for the day which turned out to be a little Suzuki ($60 Lira) and off we went. We brought our new friend “Adrian” along as well. She hails from Great Britain and we all hit it off right away. Adrian is here as her daughter is getting married here. They decided to come back to Kalkan for it as it was one of the families nicest holidays back about 20 years ago.
Back to our day trip; Our first stop was for gas as the Jeep came to us empty and I was just hoping that the gauge would work and it did. We decided a 1/2 tank should be fine and that was another $50 Lira almost as much as the car rental cost. No complaints and off we go to the adventure of the Turk mountains.
We drove and drove along twisty-turny roads. They were quite well paved but oh so entertaining. You didn’t dare take your eye off for a minute (second) as it was always changing. A few times Barb had to tell me to slow down as she wasn’t as confident as I.
Up the hills and mountains we went. It didn’t take us too long to get lost but after seeing lots of farm and ranch land we finally found Hussein’s little village. You couldn’t blink or you would miss it which was perfect! It reminded me of the villages around my Grandparents farm in days gone bye, Alberta towns such as Benalto.
Capitalism is doing just fine in this village. There appeared to be one bar, two restaurants and 3 corner stores all on the one little street. Population maybe 300 or better yet 100 when the children are home from school?
We stopped at the store located in the middle and bought ourselves a few snacks to tie us over until lunch. We sat outside on the side of the road to experience life here to it’s fullest even if just for a few minutes.
Even though we weren’t there for long we did stand out for some reason?
Different people would walk by and look at us and most of them finally waved. A group of older gentlemen (70’s?) were all gathered together under the protection of the only cafe patio’s roof. It was quite clear they were wondering what we were all about and why?
Finally one of the Elders came walking over dressed is his nice slacks, brown leather dress shoes complete with a nicely trimmed white moustache and a Greek styled hat. He sat down directly across from us. I’m sure he thought he was being discreet & that we wouldn't notice his curiosity. He just watched, so did we...
We continued to finish our treats as more and more came by. One was a lady that too had to be at least 70 years old. She was wearing her traditional head covering and loose cotton pants and sandals. She was carrying branches and leaves from a bush somewhere up the road. Likley will be part of the evening meal I thought? I said Hi and she was quite friendly and waved and smiled. A few young boys in their school uniforms came by as well but their interest was not in us it was more directed in their treats that they were about to purchase at the store while on their lunch break from school.
Speaking of treats the Ladies (Barb & Adrian) went in to the store earlier and got ours. Apparently the Ice cream treats were “two for one?” Buy one drumstick and the lady makes sure that you have two. So needless to say I (Jim) was there to help make sure there was none left over afterwards.
Another curiosity seeker was joined by a man in what looked like clothes for painting. The initial man was about 50 and well dressed. They came by one way, turned around then the other. Finally after much parading they stopped and wanted us to take their picture as they saw we had a camera. I made a comment to Barb & Adrian that he’s probably the Mayor. Later on Hussein told us he is the “Berger Miester” of the town.
(Which is the Mayor!).
Trout for Lunch?
From there we continued our drive north farther in to the hills and mountains hoping to find a Trout Farm where we were likely to have lunch. We never did find the Trout Farm and I don’t think my GPS would have been much more help than the maps we were provided.
Gas Mileage - Course #101.
At this point I noticed our so-called Jeep was a little harder on gas than I thought it would be. The 1600 cc engine was thirsty (working her a little hard to get up the mountains etc) but we still had just over a 1/4 of a tank. It grunted and groaned going up the mountainous passes, many times I was down to 2nd gear thinking I was close to 1st but she did her job and didn’t over heat herself even once as I feared she might. I’m not sure what year this little Suzuki was born but I can tell you this. The tops come off and she’s seen better days.
We rolled into another little place and this time it was a town. The was a small square at the center with a few shops on every side. As we headed north and past the square an older man (75?) looking very similar to the last one (with his white moushtace and hat) was standing in the doorway of his cafe. He waved and yelled something at us in Turkish as we went bye. We waved back as usual (we were beginning to feel like we were on parade) and continued on for another 1/4 of a mile until I was convinced by the Ladies that we needed to go back to town and stop and visit. We ended up at our new friends little cafe.
Afternoon Tea?
We walked into the cafe which was more like something out of Heritage Park (old) with its wooden floor, benches, table and chairs. There wasn’t much else; a counter, a sink, cooler and a burner for cooking on.
One customer was sitting in the corner eating his lunch. The TV was mounted high and was very loud as it focused on the Turkish Parliamentarians all arguing during their session just like they do back home in Canada! Ahh... I thought, so many similarities!
We sat down close to the front door in case we had to make a get-away (joking) and then over came our one and only waiter. No english spoken here! But again we were able to communicate mostly by laughter, frustration and hand signals.
With lots of laughs on both sides we ended up with our 3 small cups of local herbal tea called “Chai.” The weeds came out from a small cardboard box (obviously collected from the wild and then placed in there) and were inserted into the cups of hot water.
Without knowing what to do (with my cup of hot water and weeds sticking out the top) I watched the other man in the corner who had his tea. Naturally and he would wait and let it steep and then pull the branches & leaves out leaving the water slightly colored. One sugar cube was added by all then stir.
The tea was quite pleasant and very aromatic. The cost (priceless?) $1 Lira each.
We took a picture of our Cafe owner. As is custom in many places; we shook hands when leaving and laughed some more and waved again as we left.
The United Nations!
After we got into the car I started thinking and sharing that perhaps we could get a job with the UN? We could go from country to country and meet with the people, have a few laughs, leave some souvenirs and pins of our countries flags, shake hands and leave. We were definitely building some great interaction and relationships with the Turkish people!
Our little road trip was becoming a real day of pocketing little experiences along the way. Experiences I don’t think most Tourists would even consider or think to gather. You can’t buy them, you won’t be likely to forget them and unknown to us at this time; they were going to get better and better!
Along the way as we tried to determine where we were and where we were going there were a lot of opportunities for great pictures. The scenery of the mountains, hills rocks and valleys in between. We were pleasantly surprised it was beautiful. It was nothing but green and then even more green after that.
The Shepard’s Wife?
Our next interlude was with a nice little old lady. I would assume (dangerous to do) that she was in her 80’s somewhere. Wearing her traditional clothing and head scarf all which was contrasted by her pure white hair. She was sitting alone in a ditch on the side of the road. Just sitting there all alone in the grass and wild flowers which surrounded her in even more beauty. She seemed to be quite content holding her cane which almost looked like a “Shepard’s Hook.”
We didn’t realize it but we were on another dead end road so we turned around and came back again and she was watching us but not talking or waving as so many others did. Barb was adamant that we needed to see if we could take her picture? I stopped.
Using what little we know in Turkish; Barb greeted her with a hello and the lady smiled and greeted her back. Barb motioned with the camera and at first the lady did not look happy at all. Once Barb showed her the 1st picture she liked the idea and laughed! So we were able to get a couple more. Barb jumped into the “jeep.” Like the other times we waved and drove off again. She waved goodbye back to us with her somewhat toothless grin. National Geographic eat your heart out!
The reason I mentioned earlier that it is dangerous to guess their ages is because of the life that they lead in the back country here. Its a hard life I can assure you; but one that they are used to and for the most part happy with I am sure. However it ages one early. The weathered faces and tanned wrinkles all tell a story. One of simple times, simple but hard work and family; all which we were to learn much more about in a few minutes.
As I drove off I laughed to myself… I began to wonder; “What if that old-lady had fallen in the ditch during her walk?” Then we show up; take a few pictures of her and leave her sitting there? Could it be? Then I thought; No, its just a nice old lady enjoying her day amongst the flowers of her land, the land she worked so hard for so many years all to raise her family. (I hope?).
Did you say Trout for Lunch?
We never did find the fish farm. We did figure out where we were so the plan was adjusted to turn south and head back towards to the coast and over to a town called “Cas” (pr; Cash). Cas was 27 KMs south of where we were staying at Kalkan.
Picnic Day!
As we headed south we had begun to notice and recalling that for sometime there were many families parked along side of the road and in The shady treed’ areas with small fires and pick-nicking their afternoon away with bouncing balls and ropes tied to trees for swings. All the groups seemed to have several adults, younger and older along with their children. It seemed that in almost every case each family we passed would wave at us as we continued on our journey. Again we were commenting how happy and friendly the Turkish people are, and you know what it is genuine!
I was just thinking as I write; how sad it is, that our world has come to a place where we are surprised when we see happy, friendly people?
We continued to head south and Barb mentioned it would be great of we could get a picture of one of the families as they spent their afternoon (Thursday) frolicking together and having fun. (We later found out that it was actually a government holiday for the people). The next group we came upon was about to give us an experience that not one of us could buy.
As we saw the next family on the right I thought I will slow down and Barb can take their picture. Barb was in the front passenger seat. As we slowed and approached they began to yell and wave at us as per usual. As we slowed even further, almost to a stop (to the Jeeps delight) they were waving for us to come in. My first thought was of a “highway robbery” of some sort and then I began to laugh as I saw the genuine joy on the faces of this family.
We stopped; and as they instructed we got out of the Jeep. I walked rather slow and cautiously around the front of the Jeep and one of the men (35 yrs.?) came prancing over to me waving to come. Behind him I saw one of the women bring a tray of food and they were pointing at us to enjoy… A quick thought pounced through my brain again (I wonder what they put in the food?) … then again I came back to this reality.
Two women were swinging on our right on some ropes tied between two trees. They would face each other and … well you just have to see the pictures & video. By this time we were surrounded by children and adults all wanting to feed us and for us to sit with them and let them treat us to some of their food. My first reaction was no... no thank you anyhow but that quickly changed to a thought of - “well Jim you want to experience life for real... this is it!”
Chicken not Trout!
I found myself and Barb kneeling in the grass and beginning to eat the peas that were on the tray. They were peas in a pod just like back home and they were cooked. The lady was dipping them in a big jar of salt. I tried the salt thing but my “ateries” began to scream fowl... so I just ate it with out. Quite tasty and now I’m not so scared.
I looked over and saw Adrian over by the home made swing set in the tree. She was on her knees talking with the children and I thought her experience as a teacher is shining through over yonder with those cute children.
After a few of the peas were eaten they must have decided too that we weren’t going to rob them so we were then invited to sit on their mat with them about 75 feet away farther into the forest. As we approached; the other ladies took turns bringing us trays with more food. Finally I laughed… yes one more tray with desert cake!
I was the first one in and let me tell you this. If KFC could get the chicken recipe from these dear ladies they would probably make way too much money... So I hope the recipe stays with them... back in the Turkish mountains.
Our feast continued with tomatoes, peas, grape leaf rolls (with rice) and a few other things on the side. To wash it all down was some great home made tea (I have seen more tea in this country than I had imagined!). This was an experience! I was sitting there wondering if I was even really awake?
No one except for one little girl who seemed smaller than her 14 years could speak English. She herself could speak it quite well I thought but in reality it was broken English. Several times when we asked her something she would just replay “yes!”
They teach English here in school now so that they have a second language. So she would help us but for the most part it was just us, them and our gestures. There was lots of laughter and then the games & swing sets added even more jocularity, at times more than I could handle!
One of the great things and you must see these pictures was Barb and her new iPod. She recently found an Application where she could down load the “Translations” for English to Turkish and back again. It even has a way to have it said “audibly” (out loud) so that you can hear the pronunciation, which we found is very helpful! One has to be careful as the slightest pronunciation gone-wrong could become an insult or have no meaning to them at all. One also has to be careful with hand gestures and we found out earlier and will explain to you in person one day.
Time Zone - The Movie!
Let me tell you… for a minute I felt like I had “time warped” back 100 years and found some people that had never seen the “whites” before. It only lasted for a minute but it was wonderful, what a feeling! The children had all gathered around Barb and then the 2 Grammas and then the others too.
Ice Breaker!
Barb would find words in the I-Pod and play them out loud and they would all laugh.
With in a minute or two the 14 year old girl was using the iPod and flipping through the pictures of our family and asking the cutest questions and again every one was so enjoying themselves. Its amazing how fast children can learn!
If you ever want to break the ice with these types of people one of the best tools I can recommend is the “I-Pod (what I called the “Magic Box’)…. They simply loved it!
Finally after some time of swinging, volleyball and dancing together we had to announce our departure. No one was happy about it I am sure. After about 10 minutes of goodbyes it turned out the lil 14 year old girl did have email! (at school?).
So we exchanged email addresses with her and will send the copies of the pictures to them so that they can have a copy of the memory we all made too.
The people in the resort towns like Kalcan and Cas get to meet quite a few westerners. Most are from Europe and from there I’d say most of them are British. I don’t think there are a lot of North Americans that come here.
This sounds like it would be a good spot for a winter holiday as we are told the weather is about that same as it is now; low to mid 20’s. As I write this I would suspect we are into the higher 20’s today. The winters are slower here as many of the shops close for the season. If that doesn’t bother you and you are able to get a meal I think it might great for a quiet retreat from our “day to day” grind.
The point with the last part of this story is that the Turkish people are very kind and friendly by nature. Some of them have very little and are willing to share it with you. They would love to meet you and they love to laugh. It is very clear to see that family is important to them and children are tops on the list from what we have seen.
Our adventure trip ended with us traveling down to the town of Cas at the coast and stopping for a cool drink at the marina. Looks like another great Turkish town on their coast! Who knows perhaps we will go there for a couple of days?
One more quick experience to share. The other night Barb and I were out for dinner. Afterwards we went through “Old-Town” where we were staying for a walk. As I said earlier the shops all stay open late, even during the week. We came upon a shop called “Yousef’s Tailor.” This guy makes shirts. We ended up buy 3 traditional shirts with the “Preacher” type collar. A nice cotton and cool during the hot days. Once we were done the business he asked if we had a family. After we finished bragging about our children he got his families pictures out. He wanted us to stay and have a drink with him. We had to politely turn him down. He invited us to come again and he said; not to shop but to visit, have a drink and talk about our families! Perhaps one day we will!
There are lots of other things that I can add in but will save them for our conversations together when we return to Canada.
Turkey is a beautiful country. I’m sure there are places that are nothing more than overheated deserts and as much as we wanted to get to travel there I don’t think we will make it. At one point we wanted to do a 2 week tour that was recommended by our Travel Writer (www. Rick Steeves.com) but we will likely take a pass this time around. Perhaps anther trip in another time?
Another Day?
We have a minimum of another week here. Its Friday, May 6th now as I finish writing. We just changed from our lodging at the White House and moved over to our Hotel called the “Lizo.”
Its more of a Turkish hotel, very clean and nicely done but its certainly not the Hyatt in New York city nor did we want it to be.
It is our “Budget Helper” at $20 UK lbs. per night ( around $32CDN) so we do like it!
We have a nice room with a huge view of the same ocean bay but we are a little farther from the center of town (a 10 minute walk) so it is nice and quiet. Comes complete with the included breakfast. The Terrace on the top floor (a common thing here and we are glad) is partially covered over the Bar and Restaurant. A great place to relax. The pool out back provides a place for both of us to get our daily nap and a refreshing dip.
The weather seems to be getting a little hotter. Apparently their summers get very hot pushing into the 40’s Celsius. Too hot for us so I’d suggest any one coming here to do it in the spring like we did or the late fall but before the shops all close.
As we continue on our journey we will continue to upload more photos onto Face Book. If your not on Face Book we can send you a direct link for you non FB types to use.
I may look to find another site to store photos on as our Picasa account is already full?
Update: Sorry I cant get any more pictures to upload on here as our internet connection is so bad.... I'll try to load them onto Face Book and send you the link later if it works. When we get to a better place for internet I'll update the pics on here.
I hope the snow in Calgary has gone and that the birds are singing for you. For the others in other places out there I’m sure your weather is already much better than that!
Time is flying by so we will be seeing you soon.
All our best to you,
Jim for
Barb & Jim
